Click your name below to look at video of your swing along with freeze-frame comparisons with some of the top golfers in the world. View others as well and learn.
One quick note, though: a good golf swing doesn't necessarily mean you'll play or score well. Golf swings on the PGA Tour (and especially the Champions Tour) are as varied as the players themselves. There is no "one" golf swing. Raw athletic ability - and a lot of hard work - can make a technically "worse" swing perform better than a technically more proper swing.
Click a name above to see a swing here.
6-Iron: 36:8 (4.5:1)
Driver: 36:8 (4.5:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Widen stance a little (mostly by moving right foot, as ball position is a bit too far back for a 6I in this shot). The left shoulder to clubhead forms a straight line, which is good for irons. | |
Stance is a tad closed. Change to a square or even slightly open stance to give your hips room to clear (and your hands to come from inside). | |
Spine angle at impact should mirror spine angle at address. You're taller, which is going to cramp your hands and arms through impact. | |
Club comes back to the inside and crosses the line (the opposite of being laid off) at the top. Poin the club straight away from the target when it gets to parallel and straight at the target (and parallel) at the top of your backswing. | |
"Chicken Wing" through impact caused by spine angle and lack of room for arms and hands on downswing. Proper setup allows room for extension and the ability to "chase the ball" down the line with the clubhead. | |
6-Iron: 24:8 (3:1)
Driver: 24:8 (3:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Head rises dramatically during backswing. Spine actually gets to the proper tilt at the top of the backswing, but set this earlier - in the setup - to avoid the "up and down" swing here. Consistent contact is all but impossible with this much vertical movement. | |
Here's the cause of the "rise on the backswing" move: too much hip bend at address. Your club length is probably fine - get the club shaft a little more upright and match your hip bend to your knee bend. | |
Club gets well inside the hands on the backswing and then points across the target line at the top. Club should point away from target at parallel and then at the target when it hits parallel at the top of the backswing. Also note the relative position of the left arm (and thus the hands) at the top of the backswing with the golfer to the right (Trevor Immelman) - Trevor's left arm (shoulder to hand) is pointed just outside the ball and his hands are over his right shoulder. Mike's arm is pointing well right of the ball and his hands are on the same level as his shoulder. This is a very flat swing plane. | |
Spine angle at impact should mirror the spine angle at address. You've risen dramatically, your butt moves towards the ball, and your hands get cramped. You've come over the top and hit a pull or a big cut/slice here at best. See the image of Sergio Garcia hitting an iron above to check his spine angles, and look at how Tiger's butt stays in the same place throughout the swing. | |
Driver ball position is pretty far back - get it off the left heel or so as you want to be swinging slightly upwards when you make contact with the driver. | |
6-Iron: 29:10 (2.9:1)
Driver: 30:11 (2.6:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Particularly with irons, but also with the driver, you want a fairly straight arm from the left shoulder to the clubhead. It's okay if you accomplish this with a forward press prior to your takeaway (Nicklaus did it, Floyd did it, etc.), but getting the shaft leaning forward ensures a crisp, descending blow on irons and sets the right shoulder lower for the driver and woods. | |
Your left heel lifts off the ground and comes in while and your left knee kicks forward and out. With that move, you over-rotate your hips and lose control of the club (too far past parallel). Ernie Els gets to parallel with very little heel lift or extra knee action. John Daly, who goes way past parallel, does so with his left heel coming off the ground no more than a half an inch. He also always plants it back where it was, without rotating it in and kicking the left knee out. Your backswing would be near perfect if you cut it off at the stage shown in the left side of the left image. You have less knee flex overall because you're shorter and your clubs are a tad larger. Obviously that will change in the next few years. | |
Your stance is a little closed. Your "heel/knee/hip" move (see above) gives you extra room to clear your hips through the ball, but you can accomplish this with two small changes to your setup. First, bring that front foot back an inch or two so that your feet are square or slightly open. Second, angle the left toe out a little bit (toward the target). The further you open that left foot, the more your hips and lower body will resist your upper body turning back on the backswing. Resistance between the upper and lower parts of the body creates torque, spring (coil), and thus power. | |
One very small criticism here: notice how much more your hips are open at impact than Peter Lonard to the right? That's from your knee/heel move and it's what was causing your small cut the past few days. Other than that, I have no criticisms or faults here - your impact position is one of the best on the team, and really shows that you've got a golf swing that's very close to being quite good. Eliminate the excessive (and wasted) movement at the top that robs you of power and consistency and you'll be swing the club well enough to compete quite seriously with the best in Erie (and beyond). | |
6-Iron: 27:12 (2.25:1)
Driver: 27:12 (2.25:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Good and bad on both sides here. On the left side, you have a fairly solid stance but get a bit closed with the driver relative to the target line. Work on staying square or even a tad open. Posture is good - arms hang naturally - but might stand up a tad bit more with the 6-iron. On the right side, the shaft leans forward at address on the same line as the left arm. The only thing to change here: the grip. It's excessively strong in both hands - left hand too "on top" and right hand too far underneath. | |
The club gets really far inside your hands on the backswing and then across the line at the top. The ideal positions, as you see to the right, are straight back and straight at the target at these two positions. See below for more on this issue, though, as your halfway back move isn't too bad - it's the one at the top that's killing you. | |
Here's what's killing you. You get to the top in great position… and then you keep going. Your hands - and consequently your club and shaft - make a dramatic move to the right. You want to feel as if your hands get pretty high over your shoulder (when they'll actually be slightly outside your shoulders). Your hands get there, but then they move well to the inside of your shoulder line. Cut the backswing off earlier and set the wrists at the point seen in the left side of the left image. This will eliminate the bent left arm and the plane of the left arm coming down between your feet and the ball and not just outside the ball. | |
Here we see a small reverse pivot - your weight doesn't transfer back fully to the right side. You want to feel a good bit of your weight on the inside of your right foot. Really "stack" yourself on top of it. For many good players, the first move down is to kick the left knee towards the target to begin the weight transfer. By not moving back onto your right side, you can't make much of a transfer to your left, and you're leaving power in the bag. (Ignore Colin Montgomerie's ball position in the left photo: he's punching a wedge and the camera isn't square to him.) | |
Here we see a problem that's called "casting" because, instead of retaining your wrist cock (or increasing it from about 90° to over 100°), your wrists de-cock as if they were "casting" a lure with a fishing rod. This causes a tremendous loss of power and is a very, very bad habit. | |
6-Iron: 20:9 (2.22:1)
Driver: 21:9 (2.33:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Widening your stance will let you make a better weight transfer. Your ball position is good, so widen out a bit more with the right foot than the left. Your stance width is great… if you're looking to hit a partial wedge shot, flop shot, or a chip. Car commercials a few years ago said "wider is better," and that's particularly true with the driver. The wider your stance, the wider the flat spot at the bottom of your swing - great for drivers (and, conversely, the opposite of what you want with a wedge). Sergio has one of the narrowest stances on Tour, but even his feet are outside of his shoulders. | |
In these still frames, we can see a tremendous dip from the top of the backswing down to the ball. Your head remains at a fairly constant height from setup to top of backswing, but - unlike Jeff Maggert to the right - you lose your altitude from there back down to the ball. This causes the "cramping" you see in the right frame of the leftmost picture - your hands are getting very close to your hips. | |
Here we see the "dip" from the rear. The "dip" is more evident on your shorter clubs than your driver because, with your driver, you have to stay more upright or you'd hit about two feet behind the ball. Here we see not only a dip, but a straightening of the spine (in an attempt to get out of your own way), movement of the butt towards the ball, and a dramatic change in the neck - your neck is nearly horizontal at impact! This all stems from one move you make at the top, illustrated in the next still frames (below). | |
At the top of your backswing, you're across the line. You quickly (over-)correct this, though, and at the halfway point down you're coming over the top of the ball. The swing plane, according to Ben Hogan, was like a sheet of glass that rested along your shoulders and passed through the ball. "Coming over the top," thus, is when your club and/or hands gets on top of the glass. Keep the club - shaft and head - and your hands under that plane of glass coming down. Start by getting yourself into a proper (not across the line) at the top and eliminating the hitch you've got that takes you from across the line to laid off and over the top. | |
Here we see evidence that you've come way over the top of the ball. Your hands get well behind your body immediately after impact - they've come from over the top of that glass plane to well underneath it again. Compare this to Tiger's hands (and clubhead), which stays just underneath the plane of glass. Many top pros think of "chasing the ball down the line" with the clubhead. Clearly, Tiger's clubhead has come back to the inside, but he delivered it from underneath (the inside). | |
6-Iron: 26:8 (3.25:1)
Driver: 27:8 (3.4:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Particularly with irons, but also with the driver, you want a fairly straight arm from the left shoulder to the clubhead. It's okay if you accomplish this with a forward press prior to your takeaway (Nicklaus did it, Floyd did it, etc.), but getting the shaft leaning forward ensures a crisp, descending blow on irons and sets the right shoulder lower for the driver and woods. | |
This is a common problem - varying head height throughout a swing - and you have one of the same problems I tend to have. You "compress" on the backswing and then come up out of the shot - because you have to or your hands would have no room to swing through - coming down. Look at Jeff Maggert to the right - his head is a consistent height throughout his swing. | |
Here we see the left heel coming off the ground. You get away with this a bit more than you should because you plant it in nearly the same spot, but it does kick out just a little - the heel comes in, your knee kicks forward, and your hips get open. To fix this, keep the heel on the ground and turn your front (left) foot out to the impact position at address. That way you won't have to move it there during the swing. Doing this will also naturally shorten the backswing a little. | |
Your stance is a tad bit closed, but because you're coming out of the shot, your divot (indicated by the arrow, which points in the direction of the dirt being kicked up) points to the left. Your hands get well behind your body immediately after impact. Compare this to Tiger's hands (and clubhead), which stay in front of his body. Many top pros think of "chasing the ball down the line" with the clubhead. Clearly, Tiger's clubhead has come back to the inside, but he delivered it from the inside and sent it down the line as long as possible. | |
This is a minor issue: a fairly small reverse pivot - your weight doesn't transfer back fully to the right side. You want to feel a good bit of your weight on the inside of your right foot. By not moving onto your right side, you can't make much of a transfer to your left, and you're leaving power in the bag. (Ignore Colin Montgomerie's ball position in the left photo: he's punching a wedge and the camera isn't square to him.) | |
6-Iron: 23:9 (2.6:1)
Driver: 23:10 (2.3:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Your swing is very solid, but there are two main issues. The first is that you don't get very wide on your backswing, choosing instead to cock the wrists very early. Particularly with the driver, this robs you of a bit of power and can lead to some big blocks (like the ones you were hitting earlier this summer). When your arms get to parallel (i.e. about halfway back), you get into a great position with the club shaft about 90° from your arms, so this is a minor issue. The bigger one is… | |
… right here. Cocking your wrists so early (combined with a slightly stronger than normal - or necessary - grip) brings the club way too far to the inside. Again, you correct this and get into a great position at the top, with the club shaft pointing at the target at parallel (and then going past parallel, but without excessive left knee or left heel movement). However, you know those occasional big blocks and snap hooks you hit? They're right here: the strong grip, the quick wrists, and the inside takeaway, and the slightly closed stance you can see clearly here too. | |
You do a lot of things right, and I thought I'd highlight a few of those. The first is that you maintain your spine angle consistently through the ball, which helps to keep your head at a consistent height throughout the swing (see the image to the left). Your impact position is great compared to the most commonly accepted theories. Your plane coming down is solid, you extend down the line post-impact, and you retain your balance well. Very solid. | |
6-Iron: 24:9 (2.7:1)
Driver: 24:9 (2.7:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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The ball is too far forward in both your 6-iron and your driver. You can get away with this with the driver a little more than you can with irons, where you want a downward strike at the ball, not a "sweep" or an "upward" strike as you'd get with the ball this far forward. In neither of your two 6-iron videos did you really take any divot. Your grip is a tad strong here as well. | |
Your feet are a little closed to the line, and your hips and shoulders are a little closed as well. Most pros favor a slightly open stance with the feet (to enable the hips to clear easily) and a square stance with their hips and shoulders. | |
Here we see a tremendous amount of head movement - down in the backswing, and then coming up on the shot through impact. This, combined with your ball position, makes it much, much tougher to hit irons than it should be - you will catch a lot thin or heavy because you lack a consistent "center" to your swing and you're not striking down with your iron shots. | |
Lots of knee movement here. Lifting your left heel and kicking your left knee in may be a nice trigger to help you start your downswing (re-planting the left heel), but it's likely causing some consistency problems. Even in the old days, when they had more "sway" in their swings, Sam Snead didn't bring his left knee all the way back to touch his right knee. Today's "old-style" swinger Vijay Singh doesn't do it either. | |
6-Iron: 21:9 (2.3:1)
Driver: 23:10 (2.3:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Your first move away from the ball includes a piece where you bend your elbows and "pick the club up" off the ground. Emulate Tiger and Sam Snea more (see right image) and "sweep" the club back low to the ground, maintaining a straight left arm until near the top of your backswing. If you need to hover the club slightly in your setup to be able to sweep it back low, do so. | |
You're short now (you'll grow), but your clubs are a tad shorter too. As such, it's a good time to get into a proper stance. A proper stance matches the knee bend with the hip bend and allows the arms to hang naturally - nearly straight down - from the body with plenty of room between the butt of the club and your pants zipper. Your knees are fine, but your back is too upright, forcing your hands out away from your body. Examine Tiger and Faldo to the right. To give yourself some more room, step back from the ball, bend a bit more at the hips, and your hands will naturally hang lower and more beneath your shoulders (particularly with the driver). | |
You go a bit bowlegged at the top. Instead of loading your right side, you kind of coast back and through the ball. Focus on keeping your knees beneath you - your left knee will naturally kick to the right during the backswing a little and towards the target to start the downswing - and work on "loading up" on your right side. You should feel a good bit of your weight in your right thigh. | |
6-Iron: 25:8 (3.1:1)
Driver: 25:8 (3.1:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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It's tough to hit a golf ball properly when you're setting up so tall - you're going to produce a swing that's very much around your body (too flat) instead of a swing that's under the plane. Back up from the ball a few inches, bend a bit more at the knees and hips, and let the arms hang a bit more naturally from the shoulders. | |
It's tough to hit the ball consistently when you change the bottom of your swing - especially when you do so by as much as six inches from the top of the backswing to impact. Keep your head level and you'll find it much easier to deliver the club at the same place time and time again, eliminating pop-ups, thin shots, fat shots, etc. | |
Flat! Two things to look at here (hence two sets of images together). First, the club gets way behind your hands on the way back. Keep the club in front of you - when the club is parallel to the ground going back, it should point straight away from the hands and the target. Second, look at your address position. Tiger's hands and Greg Norman's hands are above their right shoulders. Yours are behind (and left) of the shoulder. The line from your left shoulder to your left hand is nearly horizontal, not just outside the ball. One final note: look at the amount of hip turn you have versus Tiger, Greg, and Trevor Immelman. Clubhead speed comes from resistance of the upper body by the lower body. Get a more upright swing and limit that hip turn and you'll strike the ball more consistently, more solidly, and with a lot more power. | |
6-Iron: 22:9 (2.4:1)
Driver: 22:9 (2.4:1)
Ideal swing ratio, according to "Tour Tempo," is 3:1
Fault | Correction |
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Your hip and knee bend match, your chin is up, your back is straight, and your arms hang naturally. You have a nice setup you aim left with your feet and clubface. This actually causes you to hit pulls when you manage to make a good swing, but because the ball goes left (where you were aiming), you think it's a bad swing. The shots you think are good are blocks or pull-cuts that happen because of a swing flaw or two (more later). A slightly open stance is okay if it helps you get your hips through impact, but if your clubface is pointed there too it's just poor aim. It's tough to see in these images (though you can see the back of your club in the cutouts compared to the other two), but Gary and I have verified this on the course too. | |
You seem to play the ball in roughly the same place with every club in your bag. You've gotta move it a bit further forward with your driver, which you will admit you hit very, very low. That'll add loft and take off some spin (good on drives, as they won't balloon). Moving the ball further forward will tilt your shoulders a bit more, too, ensuring a slightly upward stroke at the ball. | |
Here we see the tremendous "dip" you make in your downswing. You almost have to because you've come up on your backswing. You get a good shoulder turn, your weight transfers to the inside of your right foot nicely, but you lift up (probably to give your arms room to move back so far). Shorten up the backswing (not the shoulder turn) and keep your head level and you won't have to "dive down" to get the ball on the downswing. It causes blocks… like we see below. | |
You've scrunched yourself into a little ball here. Your back is rounded and your head has dipped to get back down to the ball. As a result, you've crowded your arms (specifically the right elbow), and they're very close to your body. Your hands have rotated under the shaft and left the club face open (relative to where it started - closed). If you hold the face open enough, you'll hit a straight shot… but with a faulty swing. Look at the space between Tiger's and Sam's hips and their elbows (both before and after impact). Simple fix: back away from the ball an inch or two, bend a tad more at the hips, and keep your chin level on both the back- and down-swing. | |
Still frames "borrowed" from RedGoat (Brady Riggs). Check out his extensive collection of swing sequences, freeze frames, and videos at http://redgoat.smugmug.com/.